Howard Graham tasting barrels at DRC.
The Graham Family Vineyard is located in the heart of the Russian River Valley appellation, between the towns of Forestville, Sebastopol and Graton. Howard Graham found the site for his vineyard in 2001, hired vineyard manager Charlie Chenoweth, and began planting in the spring of 2002. Howard and Charlie chose Pinot Noir clones 667, 777, 828, Swan and Calera in order to cover a wide spectrum of Pinot flavors.
Although the Russian River Valley appellation covers a large area in western Sonoma County, the Graham Family Vineyard lies in a small sub-appellation called Green Valley. Years ago when the neighboring winery Iron Horse planted their vineyards, it was thought that Green Valley was the coolest place in California where Pinot Noir would ripen. Fewer than 10 miles to the west of the vineyard lies the Pacific Ocean, so it is no surprise that the amount of sunshine during the growing season is equaled by cooling sea breezes and layers upon layers of fog.
Beneath the Graham Family vineyard is a deep layer of Gold Ridge sandy loam soil. This is the soil which supported the ubiquitous apple orchards of the region for the past 100 years, until the Pinot Noir planting boom of the late 1990s replaced many of those orchards. Gold Ridge is unique in its water-holding capacity and its ability to allow vines to be dry-farmed within two to three years of being established. The Graham Family vineyard is set up with a modern drip irrigation system, but there hasn’t been much of a need to use the system thus far. The young vines’ roots have found a good home in the Gold Ridge soil.
Howard Graham retired from his career as a financial executive in 2000 and immediately began working with his interests in wine and food. In the fall of 2000 Howard was a vintage intern at Testarossa. Howard lives in Monte Sereno, California with his wife Linda and children Christina and John.
John at the vineyard on a typically foggy day.
August West partner, John Peterson, purchased his 9.8 acre vineyard in 2010 while it was only in its second year of production. Peterson Vineyard lies less than one quarter of a mile southeast of Rosella’s, on River Road, right in the heart of the Santa Lucia Highlands appellation. There are five Pinot Noir clones planted there, 828, 667, Pommard, 777 and 115. An acre of Chardonnay was planted in 2011 and we harvested it for the first time in 2015.
John and his wife Lynn not only own the Peterson Vineyard, but they have planted another property in the Santa Lucia Highlands much higher in elevation, a few miles farther south on River Road. The new vineyard should be in production by 2016 and it is planted to Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Syrah and Viognier.
John Peterson’s younger vineyard is called Cortada Alta, which translates from Spanish to English as high notch and connotes the vineyard’s location just below the notch in the SLH appellation map. It is the highest vineyard in the Santa Lucia Highlands, and August West’s first vintage is the 2016 Pinot Noir. John, with vineyard manager Ruben Balderas, planted several heritage and Dijon clones of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Syrah and Viognier at this spectacular site, beginning in 2014. It is divided into 17 blocks with multiple sub parcels on various exposures and soil types. There are incredible views of the Salinas Valley and Gavilan Mountains from every block at Cortada Alta.
The Pinot Noir clones include Swan, Pommard, Mt. Eden, Calera, 114, 667, 777, 828, 943, 2A and 23. The Chardonnay clones include Hyde, Wente, Robert Young, Mt. Eden, Stony Hill and 76. The Syrah comes from the Alban Vineyard, and the Viognier is from Calera. The flavors that come from this sun-drenched site, mostly above the fog, are going to be on the fruit forward side of the Santa Lucias.
August West
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